The Sinai Desert rock climbing guidebook project

 

A WHILE AGO WE WERE APPROACHED BY A PUBLISHING COMPANY THAT IS KEEN TO PUBLISH THE GUIDEBOOK. TO BE ABLE TO GIVE THE PROJECT THE TIME AND ATTENTION IT NEEDED WE DECIDED TO SPEND THE WINTER 2013-14 IN THE SINAI AND AGAIN LATE AUTUMN 2014. TO CONTINUE PUSHING TOWARDS THE PUBLICATION OF THE FIRST CLIMBING GUIDEBOOK TO THE AREA THERE WOULD STILL BE A NEED FOR EXPERIENCED CLIMBERS TO JOIN OUR CLIMBING TEAM. THE NEXT TIME WE ARE HEADING OUT WILL BE EARLY 2016.

INTERESTED IN BEING PART OF THIS PROJECT? THEN READ ON…

In recent years Dave Lucas has spent several months a year in Egypt to repeat the existing routes around the village. These include lost routes from the 1930s, first climbed by Comici. But there is still plenty of work left to be done so if you feel like joining him to climb new and existing routes and help tie up the loose ends for the guide book then contact us now.

Click here to download a PDF to learn more about the practicalities.

Big wall climbing in the south Sinai mountains, Egypt

“The Southern most tip is made up of the massive volcanic highlands cut into huge cathedrals of stone watching over the wadis deep below. Here the land derives its grandeur and peculiar charm from the very nakedness of the rocky heights. In some of the wadis the hillsides are scored by countless seams of the brightest hues, their fantastic designs producing an indescribable pictorial effect. What is seemingly the mere outline of a distant landscape reflects a charming and almost magical vista as if the bare rocks were clothed with woods or vineyards, or their summits capped with eternal snows.” Arabia Petræa, Asia, A. H. Keane, 1882
 

Endless amount of rock waiting to be climbed in south Sinai, Egypt. Guidebook coming up!

Over the last 12 years The Expedition Consultancy has gained a vast amount of experience amongst the mountains, wadis, cliffs, canyons, boulders, dunes and people of the Egyptian Sinai Desert. Throughout this time the aim has been very clear; to climb and explore as much as possible so that one day we would have enough information to compile the first climbing guidebook to the area. We have almost achieved this now and hope that latest in 2015 publishing will be well under way.

 

Sunset views after a day of rock climbing near St. Katherine's village in south Sinai, Egypt.

 
 
 
Most new areas in the Sinai Desert we have found by searching for ourselves or by asking the local Bedouins. But there was one area we stumbled across by following a legend… The wind had picked up and we had huddled around a fire in the cave where Mohammed, my friend, had lived to the age of 12. We had been climbing in the Sinai desert of Egypt for the past few weeks and I was reminiscing on the days climbing when I began to hear Mohammed and his friend talk about Dahab (Arabic for gold). I asked him what this was about and he told me a Bedouin tale hundreds of years old passed down from generation to generation. The tale concludes in a box of gold being left on a ledge on a mountain too steep to climb to and too hidden to climb down to. It was a great story, but I assumed that they did not know where the peak was. I asked Mohammed did he know where the peak was. When Mohammed smiled and nodded yes I couldn’t concentrate my head went fuzzy and my heart was running ten to the dozen. I was suffering from a clear case of Gold Fever. Jebel Dahab as we have named the area is an area full of 100 to 200m high granite pinnacles, split by canyons chocked with boulders. Sadly we did not find the gold but we did establish some new routes that have only just scratched the surface on what is possible. One of the routes named F.I.G. J.A.M. is one of the classics to the Sinai Desert. It takes an unblemished crack, slab and corner up to the summit of Jebel Dahab itself. An hours walk from the camp there is a deep valley that has water in it deep enough for swimming in all year round, which will make a refreshing side trip to cool off in the desert heat.
 

Also world class bouldering can be found everywhere in the south Sinai mountains, Egypt

We managed to get a lot more research and climbing done for the guidebook during the winter months of 2013-14. One of the last main objectives is the large wall of Jebel Naja. It is a sweeping granite wall with a height gain of 500m. It appears to be a slab of a 80 degree wall but overlaps and leaning corners make it much steeper then it appears. Cracks and corners link across the kilometer long face providing unclimbed lines that we expect to go at E3/4 and above. Hot days and cold nights add to the complexity of the wall, so we will be needing a strong team of climbers to tackle this wall.

We are inviting experienced climbers out to the desert to join us and assist with putting up new lines along the face.

On climbing trips in the south Sinai mountains all the gear gets packed up on camels - and we're off to research the climbing guidebook.

The Expedition Consultancy is not using this idea to make money but simply to get help to complete the guidebook project. All you need to do is let us know your flights and we will arrange a taxi to pick you up from the Sharm-el-Sheikh airport and from then on we will split all the costs between the team.

Endless amount of 5* big wall climbs waiting to be added to climbing guidebook.


Some images above provided by Mike Hutton Photography
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