Reporting new rock climbing routes in the Sinai

How to report the route.

Martin Kocsis rock climbing in the Sinai mountains

If you have climbed a new route then please try and write up the route as soon as possible to prevent loss of information. Then try and gain the following information if you can.

  • Image. Try and take a photo when there is no harsh shadow and light across the face. Often it is best to take the photo when not in the sun.
  • GPS. Take a latitude and longitude reading of the bottom of the route. This is especially important if you have climbed on a new crag.

How to write up the route:

1)   Name, overall grade, overall length of climbing, number of stars allocated.

  • Names of first ascentionists, date of first ascent.
  • Qualitative sentence about the route also detailing any special equipment needed.

i)         Pitch one, pitch grade, pitch length, Pitch description.

ii)        Pitch two, pitch grade, pitch length, Pitch description.

Etc…

Descent: detail of descent including lengths of abseil and possible complications if done in the dark.

How to allocate stars to your route:

*** A strong natural line, clean sound rock, appropriate protection for the grade and consistent climbing at the grade. Sound Belays.

**  A good natural line, good rock, appropriate protection for the grade and some sustained climbing at the grade.

*      At least two of the above with a reasonable line.

No Stars Not a bad or unworthy route, but one that can’t tick more than one of the main criteria.

  • Stay away – loose rock, dubious protection, tedious climbing.

Other factors that add stars include great views, funky rock formations and whether or not the first ascentionist writes the route up.

Climbing in the Sinai is like an all you can eat buffet. You pick at lots of tasty morsels and then by the time the main course comes out you’re stuffed and can’t face any more.

Bolting ethics

Bolting ethics for rock climbs in the south Sinai mountains Egypt

There are bolts within The Sinai; mainly these routes are by the coast, in the Dahab and Nuweiba areas. Some bolts have crept into the central highlands area. As this area is in such an early stage of development I hope to suggest that we control the placement of bolts within the highlands. Already there has been some very insensitive sport routes placed, one of which was only 4 bolts along on the very top of Mt Sinai itself. This is a very quick way to close down climbing in the area. Below are the ethics, which I would like to install within the area.

  • Bolt bad belays and abseils.
  • Hand drill on first ascents if you can stand there and drill.
  • Occasional bolts on very run out sections, i.e. it stops you hitting the ground or ledge
  • Only consider bolting on a first ascent.
  • In general try and use trad where possible and if it looks too scary, consider retreating and saving it for someone else to climb.
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